Caribbean Anchorages

This blog is about some of the Caribbean Anchorages that I have visited and some of the services on offer in those places. It is also about day to day life and my relationship with the Caribbean.

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Thursday, 21 February 2008

St Lucia Security

Following some security incidents for cruisers in St Lucia last year, Police Stations at Marigot Bay, Rodney Bay, Soufriere and Moule-a-Chique lighthouse will be maintaining a listening watch on VHF Channel 16.

Also, by dialing "HELP", "4357" on a cell or fixed line phone, you will be able to speak to emergency services in Castries.

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Caribbean Customs Clearance

On my most recent trip to the Caribbean, sailing a charter group through both the Windward and Leeward Islands, it is becoming increasingly apparent that the islands are cutting their own throats through the implementation of painful customs procedures. This fundamentally limits where you can go and when you can go.

English Harbour, Antigua was particularly dreadful and it took me some 3.5 hours to clear customs here. Papers need to be filled in SIX times to meet the needs of the Antiguan buerocracy. When you have 8-10 crew on board, this starts to become ridiculous. Presumably super yachts with even larger crews really struggle. Clearing out in Jolly Harbour took 1.5 hours. The staff were stiff and surly. I have to be honest, I will now actively discourage visits to Antigua because of this as it is likely that charter crews will suffer the loss of almost a whole day of the charter by visiting here.

St Lucia seems similar but I suspect that this is a result of poor integration between government departments.

Similarly, St Vincent can be a little onerous.

I think one of the issues is that yacht entry fees to islands are an important source of revenue and this is fine however, on this last trip for example I had to clear in and out of customs and immigration some 8 times. Inevitably, this takes up half a morning / afternoon and limits what crews can do whilst this process is taking place. This seriously damages the vacation time (particularly with American clients who have such poor holiday allowances) and leads them to the conclusion that the Caribbean is simply to beurocratic to allow a good free flowing holiday.

I do not understand why CaribCom countries cannot come up with a single scheme that issues arriving charter parties with a Smartcard that can be quickly swiped at clearance anchorages. Fees can then be quickly calculated and paid and crews and enjoy the islands quickly, spending money on the island. All the time that crews are sat on a boat waiting for Skippers to return to announce they can go ashore is time that these crews are not spending money on the islands.

Given that the typical charter crew may only visit an anchorage / island for a night or two, this can mean that islands are losing 30-40% tourist dollar spend time on their islands. Is this not more valuable to the overall wellbeing of the islands and their communities than $25EC clearance fee?

During this trip, I came across two yachtsmen, both of whom had been coming to the Caribbean for over 20 years, both had come to the conclusion that the onerous paperwork generated by these countries made the Windward & Leewards Islands a less enjoyable place to visit and thus they were both electing to move their boats North to escape this beaurocracy.

Very interested in others opinions on this as I would at some point like to make representations to government officials about this.

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Wednesday, 20 February 2008

Bequia

Admiralty Bay, Bequia marks the start of the Grenadines and is an ideal calling point when heading south towards Grenada. Bequia is a lively little island with a great atmosphere that I have always enjoyed.

Entrance to Admiralty Bay is simple. Be careful to ensure that you anchor is holding well here as the sandy bottom is fairly hard and it is important to ensure that it is holding. You can get some quite big gusts here in the bay from time to time.

You can clear in and out of customs here and there are a few good small supermarkets to visit for provisioning. The fresh market is also good but be very careful. I once had a charter client spend £25 (around USD$50) for a Cabbage.

Frangipani's on the front is usually full of sailors from around the globe and there are also plenty of options in terms of diving and other activities here.

I will be revisiting Bequia during my next trip through the Grenadines in April so will provide a more detailed update of the area upon my arrival.

Enjoy Bequia and enjoy The Grenadines!

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Sunday, 17 February 2008

Pirates of the Caribbean - Again

Funnily enough, after my recent posting about Pirates of the Caribbean in Wallilabou, it turns out that I am taking my 3 year old son to a Pirates of the Caribbean Birthday Party this afternoon!

I look forward to the day when he is old enough to sail to Wallilabou with me and see the actual set!

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Kitesurfing & Windsurfing

I remain interested in meeting anybody in the WI who runs a Kite or Windsurf operation. I'm getting significant enquiry from people who like the idea of a Cruise n' Surf holiday aboard a 46' catamaran. If you are running such a Kite or Windsurf operation the southern Caribbean then please get in touch. I think there is some profitable and interesting business to be done here!

I'm currently in the UK and off to meet some of the Hayling Kite & Windsurfers to talk about the type of kitesurf / windsurf vacation product that they would like to see. I'll update more on this blog as we get further down the track with this.

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Saturday, 16 February 2008

Pirates of the Caribbean. Wallilabou, St Vincent

A trip to the anchorage of the interestingly named Wallilabou in St Vincent to the south of St Lucia is always and interesting stop. Particularly if you've got kids on board.

With the ability to clear customs, Wallilabou makes a good stop. On shore the Pirates of the Caribbean film set is still in place and it is interesting to see how the film set looks.

With two great bars and not a lot else here, Wallilabou is worth an overnight stop.

The boat boys here can be a bit painful at first. But plenty of firm, polite "No, thank you's" should have them off your back pretty quickly.

This is a good place to clear out when heading North to St Lucia.

You may need to tie your yacht to the shore and anchor in fairly deep water here.

Be very careful of the Rum they serve you here. On one particular visit here a few years ago, most of my crew were rolling around the floor of the restaurant in an uncontrolable fashion by 8:30 in the evening. Needless to say, the Northbound Windward passage to St Lucia the next day was something of an effort for all crew aboard!

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Coming Soon - Rescue at Sea

I recently took one of our catamarans across the Atlantic Ocean, sailing from the UK to St Lucia in the Caribbean whilst participating in ARC 2007. We were involved in the rescue of 50 immigrants 300 miles off the Mauritania Coast. The boat was spotted around 1 mile behind us. It was a small 8-9m open fishing boat, 300 miles offshore with 50 people aboard it. Two of them were dead.

Read the full story here soon.

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